Big Wednesday
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:36:22
The summers passed with each year.
I don 't seem to remember them anymore.

:36:27
I remember the fall
and the coming of winter.

:36:50
The water got cold.
:36:52
It was a time of the west swell.
:36:55
A swell of change.
:36:58
A swell you usually rode alone.
:37:57
Down behind the wall! Get up.
:37:59
There's a county ordinance. You can 't
sleep here overnight. Get up...


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