:02:06
Righteous.
:02:15
Lonny always said he wanted to die
eating foam in a massive wipeout...
:02:20
but I bet hes up in heaven
right now.
:02:22
After Lonny drowned,
I did some heavy meditating.
:02:25
I thought, maybe theres more to life
than extreme sports...
:02:30
and trying to get laid.
:02:32
Maybe theres
a bigger purpose for me...
:02:34
and Ive just been too high
to figure it out.
:02:37
I was sitting on the beach,
totally cogitating.
:02:41
I looked down, and there, in the sand,
was a copy of your book.
:02:48
It was like a sign, like your book
was calling out to me.
:02:51
Read me.
:02:54
For the next few days,
I read it from cover to cover.
:02:58
Your book totally captured
what its like to be a teenager--
:03:01
the excitement, the confusion,
the horniness.
:03:05
Sometimes I laughed so hard,
I thought I was going to puke and die.
:03:10
Other times, I cried.
:03:15
Are you okay?
:03:17
Its just so sad.
:03:21
I read your book
52 times that month...
:03:24
and I finally realized
what I wanted to do with my life.
:03:29
I want to be a writer.
:03:31
Ive been writing ever since.
Its all I ever do.
:03:35
All day and all night sometimes.
:03:38
It was hard to get going,
but, once I did, I couldnt stop.
:03:42
Im like a machine,
and nothing else matters.
:03:45
Im selling my board.
I dont have time.
:03:50
- I need to focus on my writing.
- What?
:03:53
My friends think
Ive lost my mind.
:03:56
Hes lost his mind.
:03:58
Lets get lit and go jump off
the roof of my house.