Orange County

:01:00

and spending my nights
around a bonfire partying.

:01:05

School was always a walk for me.

:01:08

I did pretty well
without trying too hard.

:01:10

There’s a tropical storm off Laguna.

:01:12

Let’s go, dude.
Surf’s up.

:01:14

I was easily distracted.

:01:15

- What about next period?
- Twenty-footers. Screw your period.

:01:19

Twenty-footers?

:01:21

Then last April, me and my crew
drove out to Emerald Cove...

:01:27

to catch some major tsunami waves.

:01:40

I don’t know, you guys.

:01:42

Dude, face the fear.

:01:47

This is intense!

:02:06

Righteous.

:02:15

Lonny always said he wanted to die
eating foam in a massive wipeout...

:02:20

but I bet he’s up in heaven
right now.

:02:22

After Lonny drowned,
I did some heavy meditating.

:02:25

I thought, maybe there’s more to life
than extreme sports...

:02:30

and trying to get laid.

:02:32

Maybe there’s
a bigger purpose for me...

:02:34

and I’ve just been too high
to figure it out.

:02:37

I was sitting on the beach,
totally cogitating.

:02:41

I looked down, and there, in the sand,
was a copy of your book.

:02:48

It was like a sign, like your book
was calling out to me.

:02:51

Read me.

:02:54

For the next few days,
I read it from cover to cover.

:02:58

Your book totally captured
what it’s like to be a teenager--