:13:03
Suddenly they get to a place
where all those dreams live.
:13:07
You'd go another
couple hundred yards...
:13:10
..."Shit, here's another place."
:13:12
At first, we didn't have a clue
we had stumbled...
:13:14
...on something so fabulously
magical and powerful.
:13:19
They must have thought
that they'd found nirvana.
:13:25
The discovery of the North Shore
was surfing's equivalent...
:13:28
... of Columbus reaching
the New World.
:13:30
Nowhere else on Earth would there
be found so many world-class...
:13:34
... big-wave breaks
in such close proximity.
:13:37
What the Paris runways
are to fashion...
:13:39
...is what the North Shore
is to the world of surfing.
:13:42
We were among the first Californians
to dedicate themselves to surfing.
:14:10
We were spending eight,
10 hours a day in the water...
:14:13
...doing nothing
but surfing our guts out.
:14:15
There wasn't any home life.
:14:17
We spent our days on the beach.
That's what we did.
:14:20
We surfed all day, every day,
no matter what.
:14:24
In those days, we never saw girls.
:14:28
If you brought a date and sat her
in the car while you surfed...
:14:31
...you never had that date again.
:14:36
These guys came to surf.
:14:39
And it was kind of unheard of.
You don't have a job...
:14:42
...you're gonna spend
a couple of months here to surf.
:14:44
No watch, no money,
no car, no nothing.
:14:48
Just shorts and a T-shirt.
:14:51
There were no hotels.
There was a place in Hale'iwa...
:14:54
...that was a set of cubicles...
:14:56
You'd have guys sharing
the place and getting mattresses...
:14:59
...from the Salvation Army
and throwing them on the floor.