:16:02
...and living a life that's not the '50s,
gray-flannel-suit thing.
:16:06
It's like an alternative thing
the way Kerouac was...
:16:10
...and bikers were,
except they're having fun.
:16:13
That was the counterculture
of its day.
:16:15
You know, you were
bucking the system...
:16:18
...and you went to Hawaii,
and you rode waves.
:16:23
They were the pioneers,
not only of riding big waves...
:16:26
...but of the culture of surfing.
:16:28
They set the pace, this kind of
free-and-easy lifestyle.
:16:32
That really was a unique period
in history.
:16:34
They were doing something so unique
in the 20th century...
:16:37
...and there was a handful of them.
:16:39
It wasn't like jazz, where there
was the Chicago scene...
:16:42
...the New York scene. This was it.
That tiny little epicenter...
:16:46
...those two dozen intrepid men,
and the women that went with them...
:16:50
...living that life.
It only lasted a few years.
:16:53
What a remarkable time
that must have been.