:31:00
When you look at surfing's history...
:31:03
...everything has to be perceived
as either pre-Gidget or post-Gidget.
:31:07
- You can't mean...
- I'm a surf bum.
:31:10
You know, ride the waves, eat,
sleep, not a care in the world.
:31:13
From the movie Gidget in '59,
when there was fewer...
:31:16
...than 5000 surfers, to 1963,
there was probably 2 million surfers.
:31:21
So in five years it went from 5000
to 2 or 3 million people doing it.
:31:33
Following the film release
of Gidget...
:31:35
... surfing underwent
a radical transformation.
:31:38
Surf shops opened doors
up and down...
:31:40
... America's West and East coasts.
:31:42
John Severson's Surfer Magazine
began publication...
:31:46
... and in 1962, surf-music pioneer
Dick Dale sold 75,000 copies...
:31:52
... of his album Surfers' Choice
in Southern California alone.
:32:06
Suddenly surfing was perceived
as hip. People assumed surfers...
:32:11
...were in the know. Look at
the life they were leading.
:32:14
The sun, the bikinis, that sort of aura
of sex, beach blankets and fires...
:32:19
...and then all that
golden flesh in the sun.
:32:25
Hollywood followed Gidget with
a medley of surf exploitation films.
:32:29
Then, in 1964, the Hollywood film
Ride the Wild Surf turned its lens...
:32:35
... on Hawaii's big-wave surfers
challenging Waimea Bay.
:32:39
Man, I've been hot to surf Waimea
since I was 13.
:32:42
But the question is, can we do it
without winding up in traction?
:32:51
The theme is all the same.
:32:52
Chicks in bikinis wringing
their hands that their boyfriends...
:32:56
...are gonna go out and risk his life
for some big wave. It just...