:42:01
If I eat it, I eat it. But I'm going.
:42:04
And I hit my feet...
:42:06
...and I've never felt water pass across
the bottom of a surfboard so fast.
:42:12
The fastest I've ever gone,
and I made it.
:42:16
And I just thought,
"Man, I want another one of those."
:42:41
Jeff went out there for the first time
and rode it by himself...
:42:44
...and couldn't get anyone
to go back out with him.
:42:50
There just weren't
any takers around here.
:42:52
People just didn't believe me.
:42:54
They just thought,
"He's out of his mind.
:42:56
He doesn't know
what he's talking about."
:42:59
I said, "It's the best big wave
you'll ever surf."
:43:04
Jeff Clark was sitting out there,
nobody in the bleachers...
:43:08
...no helicopters flying over,
no cheering crowds...
:43:12
...doing his shit by himself.
:43:30
He'd be like the equivalent
of a mountain man...
:43:32
...killing a grizzly in the Rockies,
doing a three-day battle...
:43:37
...sleeping inside the carcass,
and not having anyone to tell about it.
:43:43
My parents had no idea
I was riding waves like this.
:43:46
I believed in my ability
to go out there and ride it.
:43:49
It was my sanctuary.
I could leave the shore...
:43:52
...and go out there
and be so focused...
:43:56
...and so in tune and feel the ocean
with every fiber in my body...