1:18:00
...with greater speed
than you ever dreamed of.
1:18:03
I mean, it's like a dream.
It's just like, "Oh, my God.
1:18:06
I'm on the perfect wave,
I'm going 35 miles an hour."
1:18:09
It's so fun that it's just... l...
1:18:12
I better shut up.
1:18:20
Coming up on the Ski and seeing
plumes of water 100 feet in the air.
1:18:23
You can hear the drone of the Skis
in the distance.
1:18:26
You have these things in your head,
like, "What's going on?
1:18:29
What waves are guys riding?
What have people done?
1:18:32
How bad were wipeouts?
Is anyone dead yet?"
1:18:37
The first time that I surfed at Peahi...
1:18:39
...I remember getting
so uptight on the way out...
1:18:43
...just going, "Oh, man,"
you know, so much anxiety...
1:18:46
...that I was thinking:
1:18:48
"Jesus, I'm just... I'm not
gonna be able to surf."
1:18:52
And I remember finally
having to go, "Okay.
1:18:57
Shit.
1:18:59
I guess this is a good day to die."
1:19:03
Challenging waves in the 50-
and 60-foot range...
1:19:06
... obliterated the concept of surfing
as a solitary pursuit...
1:19:09
... and rewired the rules
of engagement.
1:19:12
You gotta have eyes
in the back of your head.
1:19:14
I got eyes, Dave and Darrick.
They see what I need to see.
1:19:17
I'll just kind of balance
right on the crest of the shoulder...
1:19:20
...so I can see what Laird's doing
and what's behind us.
1:19:25
It's a three-man operation.
1:19:27
Laird and Kalama will be paired up.
1:19:30
I'll be in the channel
for safety.
1:19:33
Performing as a team is the key
to survival in 50-foot-plus waves...
1:19:37
... where every wipeout
becomes life-threatening.
1:19:44
When things go wrong,
they go wrong real quick.
1:19:49
You're getting brutalized so severely,
you don't know when it's gonna end.
1:19:53
You're an insignificant little rag doll...
1:19:57
...trying to keep your limbs in
so that nothing gets ripped off.