1:23:00
...by believing in that person...
1:23:03
...buys you time.
1:23:04
It gives you confidence
to just make it to the surface.
1:23:08
It really makes survival
a whole different story...
1:23:13
...than if you're out there on your own,
swimming around in the water...
1:23:17
...with no one but yourself.
1:23:29
The experiences that you have there,
the friendships that are formed...
1:23:35
...going through those experiences...
1:23:38
...are ones that are very deep
because there's times where...
1:23:42
...you call upon or you experience...
1:23:45
...the most... Deepest sense
of who you are.
1:24:15
There's something about riding
a 60- to 80-foot-face wave...
1:24:19
...that draws something out of you.
1:24:23
The wave commands so much focus,
so much attention.
1:24:26
It's the only thing that matters for a few
seconds, and it's very purifying...
1:24:30
...because as far as you're concerned,
nothing else exists.
1:24:47
You're not doing this
for your own glory.
1:24:50
You're caught up
in this great act of nature.