1:25:05
Ironically, the biggest challenge...
1:25:07
... facing these professional
big-wave riders is not the wave itself.
1:25:17
You can't just go get it on Sunday
at 12:00...
1:25:20
...like you can most anything else.
1:25:23
When the ocean is not making
the waves available...
1:25:26
...Laird suffers, like a lot
of the other guys do.
1:25:30
Oh, I get so depressed, it's like:
1:25:37
We get frustrated, depressed
and bitchy...
1:25:40
...and grouchy and... You know.
1:25:43
You really don't wanna be
around us like that.
1:25:46
Laird was trying to explain what
it was like when there was no waves.
1:25:50
And he said, you know,
"It would sort of be like...
1:25:53
...if you were a dragon slayer,
and there were no dragons.
1:25:56
Then you wonder, like, who am I
and what am I doing here?"
1:26:00
And I question that all year long...
1:26:02
...except when it's 30 feet
and I'm out surfing.
1:26:37
Laird's the king out there.
1:26:38
I mean, he was the one that,
like Greg at Waimea...
1:26:43
...you know, dragged the guys
out there.
1:26:57
You just watch him surf,
and there's no one...