1:36:31
Scene one, take one. Here we go.
1:36:33
When I was in school,
I was flunking French.
1:36:35
Then my French teacher said,
"What are you gonna do...
1:36:38
...when you graduate school?
You have to pass this.
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What are you gonna do,
go to college?"
1:36:43
I says, "No, I'm gonna go surfing,
to the North Shore.
1:36:46
I'm gonna make my pilgrimage
to the North Shore.
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And if I don't die...
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...then I'll figure out what I do.
This is a noble thing I'm doing.
1:36:54
I'm going there to ride big waves,
to find out who I am."
1:36:59
The big waves are more
fascinating to me...
1:37:01
...than all the other natural wonders
in the world.
1:37:04
And I wanna see the biggest swells
every year.
1:37:07
Is this a natural wonder...
1:37:10
...as much as, say,
the Grand Canyon is?
1:37:13
To me, I mean, the Grand Canyon
pales compared to, like, Mavericks.
1:37:18
The Grand Canyon is just this
sort of erosion gully.
1:37:22
People accuse us of having ego,
but it's not all about ego.
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It's too thrilling to be
an egocentric thing.
1:37:49
Sam George, reel one.
1:37:51
If you applied the same amount
of devotion...
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...to a religious pursuit...
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...do you think anyone would call
you a religious bum? Probably not.