:39:00
[ People Whooping ]
:39:03
[ Rock Music On Stereo ]
:39:06
I don't mind
:39:09
I don't mind
:39:13
If the mountains
:39:16
Fell in the sea
:39:20
Let it be
:39:23
It ain't me
:39:28
Got my own world
to live through
:39:32
Now, I ain't
gonna copy you
:39:36
Hey.
:39:37
Hey, Bodhi.
:39:38
Yeah
:39:41
Now if a six
:39:44
Turned out to be nine
:39:47
I taught him that trick.
:39:50
I like it.
:39:52
Watch yourself.
She's a wild one.
:39:54
Make yourself
at home.
:39:57
What's
mine is yours.
:40:01
I don't care
:40:02
Man, it jacks up...
:40:05
and you drop down
into the pit.
:40:08
It's 25 feet
straight down.
:40:10
And your balls--
:40:12
Man, your balls are
about this big.
:40:15
And the whole thing's
fucking roaring, right?
:40:18
Pushing you
forward like--
:40:19
Like you're
a hood ornament...
:40:21
on a freight train
or something, man.
:40:24
Yeah, and if you lose it,
:40:26
the fish'll be picking you
out of the coral.
:40:29
Big wave riding's
for macho assholes
with a death wish.
:40:32
No, it's not.
:40:33
It's the ultimate rush.
:40:35
There's nothing
that comes close to it.
:40:38
Not even sex.
:40:40
Maybe that's 'cause
you're not doing it right, Roach.
:40:45
Just paddling out
in the big surf is total commitment.
:40:47
You can't call time out.
Stroll on in to the beach...
:40:50
if you don't
like the way things are going.
:40:52
What's the biggest,
:40:54
Waimea?
:40:55
Ridden? Makaha.
:40:57
Dana Point.
:40:58
Bell's Beach,
Australia.