:40:01
I don't care
:40:02
Man, it jacks up...
:40:05
and you drop down
into the pit.
:40:08
It's 25 feet
straight down.
:40:10
And your balls--
:40:12
Man, your balls are
about this big.
:40:15
And the whole thing's
fucking roaring, right?
:40:18
Pushing you
forward like--
:40:19
Like you're
a hood ornament...
:40:21
on a freight train
or something, man.
:40:24
Yeah, and if you lose it,
:40:26
the fish'll be picking you
out of the coral.
:40:29
Big wave riding's
for macho assholes
with a death wish.
:40:32
No, it's not.
:40:33
It's the ultimate rush.
:40:35
There's nothing
that comes close to it.
:40:38
Not even sex.
:40:40
Maybe that's 'cause
you're not doing it right, Roach.
:40:45
Just paddling out
in the big surf is total commitment.
:40:47
You can't call time out.
Stroll on in to the beach...
:40:50
if you don't
like the way things are going.
:40:52
What's the biggest,
:40:54
Waimea?
:40:55
Ridden? Makaha.
:40:57
Dana Point.
:40:58
Bell's Beach,
Australia.
:41:00
Well, uh...
:41:01
no way Bell's
is bigger than Waimea, bro.
:41:04
It will be next year.
:41:06
Bodhi believes
the 50-year storm
is coming next year.
:41:09
50-year storm,
what's that?
:41:12
That's kind of a legend.
:41:13
No, it's real.
It's absolutely real.
:41:16
Everything moves
in cycles.
:41:18
So twice a century,
the ocean lets us know...
:41:21
just how small
we really are.
:41:23
A winter storm
comes out of Antarctica,
:41:25
tearing up the Pacific,
:41:26
and it sends a huge swell
north 2,000 miles.
:41:32
And when it hits
Bell's Beach,
:41:34
it'll turn into
the biggest surf...
:41:36
this planet has ever seen,
:41:37
and I will be there.
:41:38
So will I.
:41:40
[ All Whooping, Yelling ]
:41:44
If you want
the ultimate,
:41:46
you got to be willing
to pay the ultimate price.
:41:50
It's not tragic to die
doing what you love.
:41:52
That's how
I want to go.
:41:54
Hell, I ain't going
to live to see 30.
:41:56
[ Laughing ]
:41:59
There's too much
testosterone here.