:06:01
...a bunch of scroungy surfers.
The shittier you dress...
:06:04
...and the funnier you talk... Which
nobody understood the stuff...
:06:07
...we were saying, because
it was surf jargon...
:06:10
...the more fun we had,
the more it pissed off society.
:06:23
With the devotion to riding waves
came the creation of a new lifestyle...
:06:28
... centered around all things beach.
:06:43
This emerging lifestyle went in direct
opposition to mainstream values...
:06:47
... as surfers were often regarded
as nothing more than beach bums.
:06:53
My parents never saw me surf.
:06:57
You know, they couldn't come
to the game...
:06:59
...they couldn't see the score
up on the board...
:07:02
...and couldn't understand
what good it did.
:07:05
Greg Noll's principal said, "What are
you guys doing on the beach?
:07:12
What exactly...?" Not just riding,
not going out to surf.
:07:15
But, "What are you doing
on the beach?"
:07:17
For the first time,
they had a group of guys...
:07:19
...that didn't give a rat's ass,
dropping out of the basketball team...
:07:23
...and just giving the whole thing
the finger...
:07:26
...going, "I don't give a shit.
I wanna go surfing."
:07:34
For this new generation of surfers...
:07:36
... surfing wasn't just something
you did, but something you became.
:07:40
Not just a sport, but a statement.
:07:43
I think getting radical was part
of the culture at that time.
:07:47
After a while it was expected of us...
:07:49
...and therefore we fulfilled
those expectations.
:07:52
Some guy's dad
had gotten back from the war...
:07:54
...and he had a closet
of Nazi stuff he brought back.
:07:57
Then they went over and took Flexies
and rode down a storm drain...