:05:01
It's like somebody threw
a light switch. With the advent...
:05:04
...of the lightweight longboard,
something happened.
:05:16
It was the introduction
of lightweight balsa wood...
:05:18
... and the newly discovered
aerospace material, fiberglass...
:05:22
... that cut the weight of surfboards
and paved the way...
:05:25
... for a younger generation to begin
picking up the offbeat sport.
:05:30
There was a feeling
of individuality and freedom...
:05:34
...from being able to ride this wave.
It made us feel free...
:05:37
...and I think almost rebellious.
:05:39
The ride itself is such
a bitchen deal, so rewarding...
:05:44
It becomes so important to you
that it becomes the object...
:05:47
...around which you plan your life.
:05:50
Everyone else is planning
around money.
:05:53
A bunch of guys
come along and they go:
:05:56
"Screw the money, I'm having
all the fun I can possibly have.
:05:59
Girls are loving it." Here we are...
:06:01
...a bunch of scroungy surfers.
The shittier you dress...
:06:04
...and the funnier you talk... Which
nobody understood the stuff...
:06:07
...we were saying, because
it was surf jargon...
:06:10
...the more fun we had,
the more it pissed off society.
:06:23
With the devotion to riding waves
came the creation of a new lifestyle...
:06:28
... centered around all things beach.
:06:43
This emerging lifestyle went in direct
opposition to mainstream values...
:06:47
... as surfers were often regarded
as nothing more than beach bums.
:06:53
My parents never saw me surf.
:06:57
You know, they couldn't come
to the game...
:06:59
...they couldn't see the score
up on the board...