:25:01
I went over the falls. I hit the water
and my neck went back...
:25:04
...in a whiplash
and fractured my neck.
:25:07
Lost all feelings
in my arms and legs.
:25:09
I was like a seagull full of oil...
:25:12
...just fluttering in the white water,
out of control.
:25:22
And some guys came over
and helped me in.
:25:24
I'm lucky to be alive. And I think
every single big-wave surfer...
:25:28
...could tell you a story like that.
:25:34
We didn't have flotation devices,
we didn't have leashes...
:25:38
...we didn't have helicopters
waiting to scoop you out...
:25:41
...so if you fucked up,
you were on your own.
:25:59
By 1959, Waimea had become
the epicenter of big-wave surfing...
:26:03
... fostering a new crew
of big-wave talents:
:26:06
Pat Curren, Peter Cole, Ricky Grigg,
Fred Van Dyke, Jose Angel...
:26:12
... Kealoha Kaio and Greg Noll,
whose big-wave obsession...
:26:17
... and even bigger-wave personality,
would forever link him...
:26:20
... with Waimea Bay.
:26:31
Waimea was my gal, man.
She was like...
:26:35
I mean, I surfed
with this beautiful woman...
:26:38
...who allowed me
to get away with shit...
:26:41
...as long as I didn't act
too outrageously towards her.
:26:59
There was times...