:26:03
... fostering a new crew
of big-wave talents:
:26:06
Pat Curren, Peter Cole, Ricky Grigg,
Fred Van Dyke, Jose Angel...
:26:12
... Kealoha Kaio and Greg Noll,
whose big-wave obsession...
:26:17
... and even bigger-wave personality,
would forever link him...
:26:20
... with Waimea Bay.
:26:31
Waimea was my gal, man.
She was like...
:26:35
I mean, I surfed
with this beautiful woman...
:26:38
...who allowed me
to get away with shit...
:26:41
...as long as I didn't act
too outrageously towards her.
:26:59
There was times...
:27:02
...where the surf would get perfect...
:27:04
...and you'd go out
and catch a wave:
:27:07
You just make this thing
and just have your adrenaline...
:27:11
...dripping out of your ears.
Paddle back out, do it again.
:27:14
You get too cocky,
you get your ass slapped a bit...
:27:17
...she'd let you know it.
But for the most part...
:27:20
...there was just this full-on love affair
that took place for 25 years.
:27:43
Nicknamed "The Bull"
for his charging style...
:27:46
... and clothing himself in a pair
of loud jailhouse-striped trunks...
:27:49
... Noll emerged as surfing's
first big-wave celebrity.
:27:53
He looked like a big-wave rider
with that big, thick neck...
:27:58
...and he had the black-and-white
striped trunks, which was genius.