:46:00
Five-millimeter wet suits, fog banks,
you can't see two feet in front of you.
:46:05
Oversized boulders
from the Land of the Lost.
:46:10
They extend across the length...
:46:14
...of where the wave is breaking.
:46:23
To reach the waves at Mavericks...
:46:24
... surfers paddle
over 45 minutes...
:46:26
... through a maze of rocks,
rip currents...
:46:29
... and frigid open-ocean chop
until they finally reach the lineup.
:46:37
The sacred thing in big-wave surfing
is: What are the lineups?
:46:42
Lineups are a means of triangulating
your position in the ocean.
:46:46
So you find two reference points
on land at about 90 degrees.
:46:52
Mainly what I use is this
positioning on hillsides.
:46:55
I mean, there's a big mountain
behind and a closer cliff.
:46:58
There's a satellite dish
you can line up.
:47:01
Line them up so you know
within a few feet...
:47:03
...where you are in reference
to the reef and the coastline.
:47:06
Just looking at waves,
you don't know the right spot.
:47:09
It's very important
to be in the right spot at Mavericks.
:47:12
If you're too deep,
you won't make it.
:47:16
You're not just
waiting for a wave.
:47:19
You're constantly paddling,
trying to maintain your position.
:47:23
The worst thing that can happen out
at Mavericks is getting caught inside.
:47:29
There's sets that come
that are on a regular basis...
:47:33
...and people get used to that,
sitting where those are coming.
:47:37
Then a sneak set will
come out of the blue.
:47:40
It's literally just like in those
beach-blanket movies.
:47:43
There's nothing happening,
you're sitting.
:47:45
Sometimes,
corny though it may sound...
:47:47
...someone actually yells,
"Outside!"
:47:50
And you turn and you go,
"Oh, my!"
:47:56
Your adrenaline's running,
everything is full rpm.