:47:01
Line them up so you know
within a few feet...
:47:03
...where you are in reference
to the reef and the coastline.
:47:06
Just looking at waves,
you don't know the right spot.
:47:09
It's very important
to be in the right spot at Mavericks.
:47:12
If you're too deep,
you won't make it.
:47:16
You're not just
waiting for a wave.
:47:19
You're constantly paddling,
trying to maintain your position.
:47:23
The worst thing that can happen out
at Mavericks is getting caught inside.
:47:29
There's sets that come
that are on a regular basis...
:47:33
...and people get used to that,
sitting where those are coming.
:47:37
Then a sneak set will
come out of the blue.
:47:40
It's literally just like in those
beach-blanket movies.
:47:43
There's nothing happening,
you're sitting.
:47:45
Sometimes,
corny though it may sound...
:47:47
...someone actually yells,
"Outside!"
:47:50
And you turn and you go,
"Oh, my!"
:47:56
Your adrenaline's running,
everything is full rpm.
:48:00
And you just wanna stroke
as hard as you can.
:48:05
Heart in your throat,
paddling as if catching a wave...
:48:08
...only you're trying to get out.
- It's just a total survival thing.
:48:12
Nobody cares about
the other guy at that point...
:48:14
...you just wanna get over it.
:48:20
Each successive wave
will be bigger than the one before.
:48:24
You pray the one you barely made it
over is gonna get you to the next one.
:48:29
The next one's twice as big
as the wave you just saw.
:48:32
- It's gonna land right on you.
- Then the sinking feeling.
:48:36
"I'm caught, I'm caught,
and I'm not gonna get away."
:48:38
Oh, that guy's in the impact zone.
:48:49
There's a point
where it gets so critical...
:48:52
...you have to either commit,
and you'll make it out the back...
:48:55
...or you slide off your board
and swim into a vertical face of water.