:50:03
The wave comes out
of deep water...
:50:05
...but it just stops, and that whole
mass of that wave jacks up.
:50:10
The bottom of the wave
becomes the top in half a second.
:50:13
It rears up and pulls back
and sucks up...
:50:16
...and you really have to find your
niche where you can be under that.
:50:21
You thought you were paddling into
something maybe 20 or 30 feet.
:50:25
Now you're riding something
35 to 40 feet tall.
:50:27
You gotta put everything
you have into getting yourself...
:50:31
...as far down the face
before it picks you up.
:50:33
You have to jump off the cliff right
when the thing's about to jump on you.
:50:49
If you make haste in a takeoff...
:50:51
...your odds of you making
that wave are very low.
:50:56
The whole aspect is really
more mental than physical.
:51:00
You have to believe.
:51:01
I know when I'm gonna
make a wave or I'm not...
:51:04
...before I even paddle for it.
:51:06
I have to overcome that safety
mechanism that wants to rise up...
:51:10
...and to keep me from doing
something that could kill me.
:51:13
So this fear of the unknown becomes,
like, something you have to confront.
:51:18
Because there is no way
to turn back your decision.
:51:22
Because there is no way
to turn back your decision.
:51:29
I've just wiped out.
:51:32
I'm getting just worked.
:51:34
Fluttering down the face,
getting sucked back over the face.
:51:39
Then you basically become the lip.
:51:46
Back flips, front flips, McTwists,
every which way underwater...
:51:50
...real fast over, like,
a football field.
:51:54
You don't know which direction
is up or down or right or left.
:51:58
It's black. It's dark.
I can feel the pressure in my ears.