:51:00
You have to believe.
:51:01
I know when I'm gonna
make a wave or I'm not...
:51:04
...before I even paddle for it.
:51:06
I have to overcome that safety
mechanism that wants to rise up...
:51:10
...and to keep me from doing
something that could kill me.
:51:13
So this fear of the unknown becomes,
like, something you have to confront.
:51:18
Because there is no way
to turn back your decision.
:51:22
Because there is no way
to turn back your decision.
:51:29
I've just wiped out.
:51:32
I'm getting just worked.
:51:34
Fluttering down the face,
getting sucked back over the face.
:51:39
Then you basically become the lip.
:51:46
Back flips, front flips, McTwists,
every which way underwater...
:51:50
...real fast over, like,
a football field.
:51:54
You don't know which direction
is up or down or right or left.
:51:58
It's black. It's dark.
I can feel the pressure in my ears.
:52:01
You're sure you're near
the surface...
:52:03
...then what you have perceived
to be up is actually the bottom.
:52:06
And the leash is pulling hard on you,
the board is tombstoning up there.
:52:10
And I realize that if there
was another wave that was coming...
:52:14
...I'm finished.
:52:16
At one point, it started to stop,
and I thought, "Okay...
:52:19
...I'm gonna live," you know.
:52:20
- I started to swim up...
- And the next wave hit.
:52:23
Then it started all over again,
every bit as bad as the first part of it.
:52:31
I remember feeling underwater,
like going over a waterfall underwater.
:52:35
Literally getting sucked into a hole.
:52:37
Here I am 30 feet down, and now
it takes me another 15, 20 feet down.
:52:41
And I slam into the bottom down there.
And you think:
:52:44
"Oh, my God. I'm deeper
than anyone's ever been."
:52:49
You get to a point
when you're down there, like:
:52:52
"Okay, this is not
happening anymore."
:52:54
You know, you gotta
get to the surface to get air.
:52:57
Finally, when I come up to the surface,
I remember it being so bright.