Riding Giants
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:53:03
It was like being in a dream
and all of a sudden:

:53:08
Back to, "Okay, this is real.
This is live now."

:53:36
Almost every traumatic thing
that can happen to you at Mavericks...

:53:40
...is due to the leash.
:53:43
Leashes are a dangerous thing
in any surf spot over 20 feet.

:53:49
There's those few critical situations
where leashes are a hindrance.

:53:53
After the first wave, Flea found
himself on the wrong end of his leash.

:53:58
When entangled in a crevice...
:53:59
... the urethane cord
held him in place...

:54:02
... while he was repeatedly battered
by incoming white water.

:54:06
The leash wrapped around rocks.
I was stuck for eight waves.

:54:10
- How come you couldn't get it off?
- The water current was so strong...

:54:15
...it's like doing a sit-up
with 200 pounds on your chest.

:54:30
Flea eventually worked himself loose.
But in a more dramatic incident...

:54:35
... Jeff Clark was hurled
into Mavericks' rocky Boneyard...

:54:38
... and was trapped when his leash
became hooked onto Sail Rock.

:54:42
I can't get the leash off my ankle.
:54:45
The broken half of my board
is dragging me into the rocks.

:54:48
Finally, I'm getting swirled around,
I got my hands out, and I feel the rock.

:54:53
I'm hanging onto
the side of this rock.

:54:55
I'm underwater and the water starts
to drain, and I am high and dry.


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