Riding Giants
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:54:02
... while he was repeatedly battered
by incoming white water.

:54:06
The leash wrapped around rocks.
I was stuck for eight waves.

:54:10
- How come you couldn't get it off?
- The water current was so strong...

:54:15
...it's like doing a sit-up
with 200 pounds on your chest.

:54:30
Flea eventually worked himself loose.
But in a more dramatic incident...

:54:35
... Jeff Clark was hurled
into Mavericks' rocky Boneyard...

:54:38
... and was trapped when his leash
became hooked onto Sail Rock.

:54:42
I can't get the leash off my ankle.
:54:45
The broken half of my board
is dragging me into the rocks.

:54:48
Finally, I'm getting swirled around,
I got my hands out, and I feel the rock.

:54:53
I'm hanging onto
the side of this rock.

:54:55
I'm underwater and the water starts
to drain, and I am high and dry.

:55:02
Next thing you know,
another wave came over the rock.

:55:05
I'm underwater again.
The tension from my leg rope relieved.

:55:08
I climbed on the rock,
and I got rid of that damn anchor...

:55:11
...that was around my leg.
:55:14
It's funny that Mavericks surfers value
their surfboards more than their lives.

:55:19
It's like a lifeline.
:55:20
If you get held down,
the only thing that I know...

:55:23
...is at the end of this is something
that floats more than I do.

:55:27
So if I wait and hold onto it,
that's up.

:55:29
So I reach around
and grab my leash...

:55:31
...and climb it back to the top,
back to the surface.

:55:34
I know, in my experience,
there were times when...

:55:36
...if I didn't have a leash,
I'm not sure I would have lived.

:55:42
In May of 1992...
:55:44
... two years after Clark shared his
spot with Powers and Schmidt...

:55:48
...Surfer Magazine
took Mavericks public...

:55:50
... with a cover story
titled "Cold Sweat."

:55:56
As if to back up
the front-page headline...

:55:58
... in 1994, California was bombarded
by a series of epic north swells...


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