Riding Giants
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:58:01
And that was just...
:58:08
We were headed back in the boat
toward the harbor, and I saw some...

:58:13
It kind of looked just like
a big clump of something...

:58:16
...as we were, you know,
passing it.

:58:18
And I pointed it out and said:
:58:20
"Hey, that looks like a body,"
you know.

:58:24
And, you know, sure enough,
we stopped the boat...

:58:28
...and just realized that it was,
you know, Mark Foo.

:58:38
I dove off and grabbed him
and just rushed to the harbor.

:58:44
It was a...
:58:46
It was a really eerie, eerie,
you know, experience...

:58:50
...and just so chilling.
:58:57
It went from the most pleasant,
beautiful, plate-glass sunshiny day...

:59:01
...to the clouds moved in,
it got dark...

:59:05
...the wind came up
and it was just, you know...

:59:08
...like we lost a great warrior.
:59:11
One of our surfers,
one of our own, was gone.

:59:18
To have that winter when
Mark Foo passed away, that was...

:59:21
That was a heavy hit
to everybody.

:59:22
That was a heavy hit
to everybody.

:59:26
What added to the shock of Foo's
death were its circumstances.

:59:29
An innocuous wipeout
on a less-than-death-defying wave...

:59:33
... in the middle
of a crowded lineup.

:59:35
I think he fell on his stomach,
knocked the wind out of himself...

:59:39
...and was fatigued from the flight
the night before, you know.

:59:42
I think he got caught
on the bottom.

:59:45
The reason I think his leg rope
got caught in the rocks...

:59:48
...is that on the next wave...
:59:50
...Brock Little
and Mike Parsons wipe out.

:59:58
Parsons comes up,
and Brock was behind him.


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