1:31:00
...to keep himself from getting
sucked up in that hydraulic.
1:31:04
You know, in the middle
of that maelstrom...
1:31:07
...how did his mind say,
"This is what I have to do."
1:31:10
No one had ever ridden as Laird rode
on that wave before.
1:31:13
And so it was the imagination...
1:31:15
...of dealing with
that unimaginable energy...
1:31:18
...and coming up with
the plan spontaneously.
1:31:20
He couldn't practice.
1:31:27
I asked Laird, I said, "Laird,
why do you ride waves like this?
1:31:31
Why do you risk your life riding waves
like this?" He looked at me...
1:31:36
This is a week after he did this, and
he was drained from the experience.
1:31:39
He was very mellow and very...
1:31:41
I think he was humbled by
the experience, and he goes:
1:31:45
"Dad, I've trained my whole life
for this.
1:31:48
I don't wanna miss
an opportunity like that."
1:32:02
I don't wanna not live because
of my fear of what could happen.
1:32:16
It softened some hard corners
in my life, I would say.
1:32:20
And I felt honored to be awarded...
1:32:24
...with something so...
1:32:27
...magnificent that it just
made me appreciate...
1:32:31
...what I've been able
to have, experience, do.