1:32:02
I don't wanna not live because
of my fear of what could happen.
1:32:16
It softened some hard corners
in my life, I would say.
1:32:20
And I felt honored to be awarded...
1:32:24
...with something so...
1:32:27
...magnificent that it just
made me appreciate...
1:32:31
...what I've been able
to have, experience, do.
1:33:17
One of the things I love about
my work as a physician...
1:33:20
...and I work with cancer patients,
people with life-threatening illnesses...
1:33:25
...is to see what often takes place,
which is, literally, transformation.
1:33:31
Where they just begin to, sort of,
eliminate the bullshit...
1:33:35
...and they begin to actually live,
truly live, almost for the first time.
1:33:39
And those kind of
life-changing events...
1:33:43
...can come from illness...
1:33:46
...they can come from revelation...
1:33:48
...they can actually come from,
for me, anyway, big-wave surfing.
1:33:53
That's the thing about it, it's that
ultimate big wave that you ride...
1:33:57
...that you remember
for the rest of your life.